Vildmarksvägen: the Wilderness Road in Sweden
Vildmarksvägen (Wilderness Road) is, together with Flatruet, the most beautiful route you can drive in Sweden. At least, in my humble opinion. I had already seen the signs from Vilhelmina in 2018 pointing towards it, but didn’t pay any attention at the time. However, when I saw images of Youtuber Jonna Jinton at the Stekenjokk I knew: that’s where I want to go! In the summer of 2021 it happened and I made a two-day road trip on the Vildmarksvägen Wilderness Road of Sweden. In the summer of 2023 I moved to Sweden from The Netherlands and I live in a town that’s located on Vildmarkvägen, called Dorotea. In this article I will tell you all you need to know about your trip on the Wilderness Road in Sweden.
The first part of the article will include my personal experiences from my first visit in 2018. I have added various more experience to the article since.
Table of Contents | Inhoudsopgave
About Vildmarksvägen
The total length of the Vildmarksvägen is 500 kilometers if you do the full loop. It starts and ends in Strömsund in Jämtland and crosses the border with Västerbotten just before Stekenjokk, where you have arrived in Swedish Lapland. Most people do this route on their way further north and choose to turn left at Strömsund and leave the road at Vilhelmina to continue north.
The Vildmarksvägen is the highest paved road in Sweden, the real highest road is the Flatruet, but this is mostly unpaved. I can’t say which of the two is the most beautiful, they are both different, but the further north you go, the colder it gets. My travel partner with whom I visited the Vildmarksvägen in 2021 had already warned me: it’s always cold and bad weather at Stekenjokk. I thought “who knows, maybe I’ll get lucky”. Whether that happened … you can read further on!
The first part of Vildmarksvägen: Stromsund – Bågede
The first part of the Vildmarksvägen is not very exciting. In fact, there are dark skies above the road and so I don’t feel like making any stops. The landscape is still fairly flat here, but in the distance the mountains on the border with Norway begin to appear. At Bågede I decide to leave the paved road. Here I see the sign for the Björnvägen, or the bear road. It turns that it runs more or less parallel to the Vildmarksvägen, but on the other side of the river. At Bågede I turn right onto the unpaved road, it’s much nicer instead of all that asphalt!
Hällingsåfallet waterfall
I do see several signs with Hällingsåfallet. I decide to drive towards the waterfall and am surprised at how busy it is here! There are dozens of campers and cars, so I expect something spectacular. And that’s what I get! This waterfall is located in the nature reserve of the same name in an 800-meter-long canyon. Three years earlier I saw the highest waterfall in Sweden, but this one is a lot more spectacular in terms of volume. The Hällingsåfallet is 43 meters high and almost bursts at the seams, it seems. There are several hiking trails and viewpoints around the waterfall, so it is definitely recommended to spend some time here!
Groceries in Gäddede
The last place of significance on Vildmarksvägen is the small town of Gäddede. Here is a small supermarket where I do some shopping. I don’t know yet how far I want to drive today, but have decided that as soon as I see a nice place, I will park the car there for the night. From Gäddede I slowly drive further into the wilderness. The dark skies are now alternating with sun!
Freedom camping near the water
Since I suspect that it will be busy on Stekenjokk, I think it is a good idea to start looking for a camping spot long before that. I eventually find one at a small lake just before I drive up the Stekenjokk plateau on the Vildmarksvägen. Although the wind is cold, the sun is shining. I spend the afternoon grilling sausages and reading a book. In the distance lie the last patches of snow of the season and I can’t wait to really go up the Stekenjokk tomorrow.
Off to Stekenjokk!
“It’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey.” A well-known quote that certainly also applies to this route. Because … the route to Stekenjokk is actually at least as beautiful as Stekenjokk itself. The weather at the top is not that great and just bloody cold, despite it being the middle of summer. I look around Stekenjokk briefly but find it quite busy. Moreover, there are showers in the air and the wind is bizarre. So I quickly leave Stekenjokk for what it is and descend again to lowers parts of land.
In 2023 I visited Stekenjokk again and spent a few days there, this time again in the cold (because it had just opened and there was still a lot of snow) but with sunny weather. That made it so much more beautiful!
In 2024 I had incredibly bad weather again. Just before Stekenjokk the sun was shining, once on the plateau it was pouring down and there was even a thunderstorm.
Breakfast at Klimfjäll
It seems like it gets considerably warmer with every meter I descend. Just past the village of Klimpfjäll I find a nice parking spot by the water, where I prepare breakfast. Although the down jacket is still on, the wind is warmer here and a lot less strong.
Trappstegsforsen – the prettiest waterfall in Sweden?
A little further on I suddenly see a series of cascaded waterfalls: it turns out to be the Trappstegsforsarna or Trappstegsforsen. Here too I am amazed, what a special place. The water here is incredibly powerful and I thoroughly enjoy the enormous force of nature that is presented here. The only pity is the tourist shop at the parking lot, it almost feels un-Swedish. After taking the necessary photos I decide to get back in the car and drive on to Vilhelmina. The landscape becomes flatter and less rugged, but oh how I enjoyed it!
Two more beautiful waterfalls
In 2024 I visited two more waterfalls on the Vildmarksvägen: the Brakkafallet and the Gaustafallet. Both are located on the Jämtland side of the Vildmarksvägen. For the Brakkafallet you have to walk a short distance on a stony path and this waterfall consists of two parts. The Gaustafallet is also a short walk from the parking lot. Both were full of water because it was June and therefore the melting season. It’s however possible that you see less water in the waterfalls in other months.
Fatmomakke
Another special place that I visited for the first time in 2024 is Fatmomakke. This is one of the few intact church villages in the north of Sweden. This is where the Sami have been gathering for centuries and where a large service is held every summer during midsummer. You can visit the church, as well as several lavvú (Sami huts) and a small museum. Allow about an hour for your visit to Fatmomakke, it is located a bit off the main road and from the parking lot it is about a 10 minute walk to the church village.
Want to know more about Vildmarksvägen?
I found it hard to find information about Vildmarksvägen online. On this site you can download a map with sights and stops. Make sure to fill up gas in Strömsund or Vilhelmina as prices increase once you’re on the Vildmarksvägen.
Accommodations near Stekenjokk you will find near Gäddede, Klimpfjäll of Saxnäs.
Is Vildmarksvägen worth it?
A good question that I can’t answer. I thought it was very beautiful, but I also thought Flatruet was very beautiful. I’ve heard that the Vildmarksvägen has been hyped a bit in recent years, also by the Swedes themselves who have of course been in their own country a lot. So yes, it is a bit touristy, but I thought it was very worthwhile despite the cold. The views are stunning and if it’s a good day, it’s definitely worth it.
When is Vildmarksvägen open?
Usually Vildmarksvägen opens on June 6th and closes on October 15th each year. This of course depends on the conditions and the amount of snow that falls in winter and spring! Also keep in mind that in many places there is a no-stopping ban due to reindeer and breeding birds. This is clearly indicated on site.
Book your trip to Sweden
If you’ve found this article useful, I hope you make use of the following links to book your trip to Sweden:
- Planetickets can be booked via Skyscanner.
- Rental car rates and availability can be found here.
- Buy your Sweden guidebook here.
- Book your accommodations on Booking.
- Find tours and excursions here.
- Book your bus tickets here.
- Find prices and book your ferry here.
Conclusion
Hopefully I have given you some inspiration about the Vildmarksvägen Wilderness Road of Sweden. If you have any questions and/or comments, please leave a comment below. f you want to read more about Sweden, you may also enjoy the following blogs:
- Freedom camping in Sweden: these are the rules
- The most beautiful places in Sweden
- Or visit my Sweden homepage with more than 50 articles about travel to Sweden, written by a local!
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